some frozen CP's, photos taken Dec. 13, 2013. It was down to 29F (approx. -2C), which is probably a warm spring morning in Alaska, but abnormally cold for the Bay Area, CA:
S. rosea Liberty Co, FL: the water is frozen solid in this trap, but there was zero damage:
The top layer of soil was solid ice, but below that wasn't frozen:
Frozen baby celphalotus-yup, these are frost tolerant:
Some more frozen cephalotus:
When Drosophyllums freeze, they look like they're wilted and completely dead. Surprisingly, these freezes don't damage the leaves whatsoever-they just look bad for a few weeks, and then are back to normal. These plants had already "defrosted" by the time the photo was taken, so it's not as dramatic, but still interesting to see:
Last Edit: Dec 15, 2013 12:24:23 GMT -5 by meizzwang
We are having the opposite problem. South Florida has been unusually warm so far this winter. The lowest temperature we've had so far was a pre-dawn 51 F. The Sarracenia are still going dormant despite the warmth, and we attribute this to the shorter daylight hours. However, winter is just getting started...
Very strange indeed Sunbelle. This is the time of year where your bones are supposed to be aching from the cold... Must be so horrible to live in a place with such warm winter weather
Here's the dead of winter in California-we had a cold snap a few weeks ago, but now our day temps are in the 50's to low 60's, and night temps. in the upper 30's to low 40's. After looking at this picture, I'm dreading having to clip ALL of those leaves, and then repotting, which takes a lifetime. Our temps. may not be extremely cold, but try clipping plants in the cold with wet hands for 8 hours, especially once the sun has disappeared:
For me, the flavas are the first to be trimmed (starting in mid December). While it's more practical to just dead-head everything (ie. cut off all the leaves to the soil line), I like to "trim for jesus." This is a good time to clean out all of the old, dead material, which will expose the rhizomes to more light and make them a bit stronger. IF it's green, I keep it on-it seems to benefit the plant. Anything that's brown is taken down:
Minors are tricky-half the trap is brown, the other half is green. Wait too long to trim, and you can get some rot. Trim to early, and you'll have to come back and trim again because weeks later, the "green" leaves you left on turn brown. I usually get to these by late January:
With the purps, the traps generally last throughout the winter and even into spring. It's nice not having to prune absolutely everything during the winter. I'll still remove the dead pitcher here and there, but it's not much of a chore like the others:
With the community trays, it's critical to clean out all dead material. One rotten leaf can cause the entire tray to "catch fire" ie. rot. I've had entire trays rot away before:
An overview of the collection. Everything here is completely dormant, although I suspect many plants are still slowly translocating some energy into the rhizome:
Last Edit: Dec 24, 2013 14:47:35 GMT -5 by meizzwang
Thanks for the pics, Mike. Despite our very different conditions, your plants look amazingly similar to ours at this time. We have the occasional last minute plants that will put up a smallish trap right about now --a characteristic of rubra (and rubra hybrids) for our "south of the south" environment. We've already started repotting and dividing, and it will take all winter. Soon they will get a "buzz cut". Michelle will take 'em down to the rhizome, and only leave green phyllodia. This also make it easier to see which need dividing first. Late January we are still repotting, and it's when we get our real winter weather. There's nothing like spending the bulk of your afternoon with your hands in wet peat at about 55 F. By the end of the day, the fingers are taking on a blue cast. Gotta love it!
The only thing I've got to show are the seedlings inside, but some are looking interesting with the southern sunlight hitting them all day.... S. 'Royal Ruby' x 'Adrian Slack', 2 different clones S. purpurea venosa burkii "Chipola" x typical S. x catesbaei "Monster" x purpurea 'Red Ruffles' S. 'Scarlet Belle' x swaniana
Those who are crazy enough to think they can change the world, are the ones that do.
sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5
sarrseens: How about $50
Oct 3, 2020 10:35:54 GMT -5