Yes. I basically take a seed in my fingers and hold it so the fat part of the seed is exposed, then take a round file (chainsaw file or similar) and give it a few passes until I see the white endosperm. I then just barely cover them in the sandy media. If the seed is older, germination is usually right around 15 days in our sundew greenhouse. This time of year temperatures are in the 60's to 70 in there with night temperatures in the 50's. I always start seed in peat pots to have flexibility for sales or repotting into larger terracotta pots.
Post by billredlionpa on Dec 22, 2014 13:30:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the info jdallas!
I'm intrigued by Drosophyllum Lucitanicum's ability to absorb atmospheric moisture in the morning in its natural setting.
This got my wheels turning.... I live in southern Pennsylvania and am going to attempt to germinate some plants in time for the summer outdoor growing season.
In addition to being careful to provide the proper amount of watering, might there be any benefit to setting up some sort of fog machine which would kick on for a period of time early morning? I'm not having much luck finding such a machine for plants (most are the glycol mix theatrical type.) Is this a dead end, or might it help them grow to epic proportions?
I'm almost done with my trip, but just spent several days on the Algerian coast, city of Oran, and I got to see how the Mediterranean mornings are humid with a coating of dew over everything which quickly burns off, even at this time of the year. I really wanted to explore some coastal hills in the wishful hope of discovering an Algerian population of Drosophyllum Lucitanicum, but I wasn't able to work it into the trip. I ultimately wanted to drive to Northern Morocco to try and spot the dl population there... maybe next time I'll be able to plan a little better and work the trip in.
Morning humidity: (first pic is to show the setting, note a local gardener burning off some vegetation)
That mix should be just fine. The fog thing probably isn't needed, but ultrasonic humidifiers would do what you want.
Ah, so that's what it's called - an ultrasonic humidifier! Gonna file that tidbit away for possible future use Thank you for feedback on the soil mix!
Edit to add: The more reading I do, the more times I encounter Pumice as a recommended soil amendment for DL. I could also use it when I make a new batch of nepenthes mix.
I might modify the DL mix, going with: 1/4 Sand, 1/4 Perlite, 1/4 Pumice, 1/4 Peat. Final thing I'm debating is if it might be worth dividing the peat into: 1/8 Peat, 1/8 Vermiculite. With only 1/8 Peat, it will drain even faster and be more airy, but I might have to keep a closer eye on moisture levels.
Post by billredlionpa on Jan 12, 2015 14:24:34 GMT -5
I'm starting out with 6 seeds (only four fit in the picture I took.) Scarified them, soaked in distilled water for 24 hours, had some gibberellic acid on hand so added that to the soak for good measure. Seeds are currently chilling on some damp peat under bright lights. Once I get the rest of the soil ingredients I need for potting them up, I might switch to having them finish their germination on vermiculite. Picture below was taken right after situating them. I'm not sure what the white flecks are; I'll keep a close eye on them...
No need to over-think this. Drosophyllum isn't that hard to germinate. If you've done the scarification, and the seeds are at least a year old, you're good to go. I would just place yours seeds, one per pot, in peat pots filled with your sandy mix. Pumice is good if you can get it, but not vital. Avoid vermiculite. It holds too much water, and breaks down over time to a mushy mess. Germination takes place right around 15 days. Not all of them are likely to make it, but you're have enough to start a good collection.
You don't want groups of them germinating together; they hate root disturbance. This is why the peat pots work so well. You just plant the whole pot in a large pot and you're done.
Post by billredlionpa on Jan 13, 2015 10:58:30 GMT -5
Thank you very much Jeff. I hope to be able to contribute to the hobby as I learn more, vs my current state of constantly asking questions.
I'm going to do both of the things you suggested, using peat pots to start them out, and skipping the vermiculite. Once I have something to report, I might start my own thread so I'm not clogging up Mike's thread too much more.
been forever, but I finally got my camera repaired! some new photos, taken 3/31/15:
These pictures were taken a little over a month ago, before my camera broke! Okay, so this really sucks-all of these were loaded with insect, completely healthy, and then I transplanted them carefully. Didn't disturb the roots or anything...They took off, but then we had a rainstorm, and almost every last one of them is now dead:
Notice how on the left side of the pot, there's tons of seedlings, and on the right side, almost nothing. This is the difference between scarified seeds (left) and non-scarified:
No, scarification isn't just a wive's tale, it's really important, so do it!
No matter how good these plants look, I still don't fully understand them!
Post by billredlionpa on Apr 1, 2015 14:56:17 GMT -5
Damn those look so robust! I managed to kill 5 out of 6 of my seedlings. The last one is growing well, but even under T5 lights, it is putting out very thin 'leaves' vs yours which look a lot stockier.
Post by ps3isawesome on Apr 1, 2015 14:58:58 GMT -5
I assume I have a natural advantage being that I live pretty close to Mike? I don't want to buy a plant this expensive and kill it even though after reading this whole tire post, that's just kind of the process of growing dewey pines
PS3:get them past the tiny seedling stage and they can take abuse. Remember that insane wind storm we had a month or two ago? Ya, those fattie mother plants I just posted went through that without any issues. Remember that "atmospheric river" where we had some of the most violent rain in recent history? Didn't phase any of these adult plants! However, that wind storm did ACE out one of my oldest 4 year old plants (I think it was 4 now!) Despite staking and taking all the precautions, that stem was just too flimsy.....thing is, all the headache is worth it, these plants are freakin amazing!
Last Edit: Apr 1, 2015 15:54:00 GMT -5 by meizzwang
sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5
sarrseens: How about $50
Oct 3, 2020 10:35:54 GMT -5