rmeyer I'm sure 42 will be plenty on account of the leuco parent I go 30 days plus however many more days it takes me to get around to sowing, lol. That usually works out to 35-37 days in the fridge, which is remarkably close to Mix Master Mike's 42.
What an honor, didn't know the obcsenities being screamed at night while repotting sarracenia were deemed worthy of being recognized as musical talent.
I have had the worst luck when it comes to growing Sarracenia from seed. No matter what I did, the seedcoats would almost always become contaminated with mold, all the while other growers would routinely post pics of healthy seedlings in what often appeared like some downright nasty-looking media. Man, I would be ticked.
Well, so far it appears I've conquered this menace. This is what I did: Seed stratification was done in a "just enough" amount of silica sand, within small snack-sized poly bags. Reverse osmosis water with added Oxy Blast® was used to wet the sand just enough, then into the refrigerator they went for 6 weeks. Any seeds that may develop mold can be easily seen and picked out with tweezers. Silica sand makes the seeds highly visible. Sample below, refrigerator-ready.
Post-stratification: The chosen style of inserts for a standard 1020 flat were filled to a little below the top with regular milled peat that you get everywhere garden products are sold. Entirely covering the surface of the peat, I spread a thin, and I mean thin, layer of silica sand, just enough to block the black color of the peat below from showing through. The seeds were just barely pressed into the wet sand. Finally, the finest layer of Jiffy® Seed Starting Mix was sprinkled over the whole surface. Now, Jiffy® Mix is PH-balanced and all that, but that's irrelevant for this ultra-thin layer. It's likely the surface of native bogs isn't as acidic anyway, as that is where dead and decaying matter often is lying.
I now have seedlings out the rear with no mold whatsoever at this point. My intention in all this was to keep mold away from the seedcoats long enough to get the plants established.
I almost always get a few moldy seeds every time, but occasionally, a seed batch here and there is pristine. The key is to rogue the individually rotting seeds out before germination occurs, otherwise the entire pot may rot later down the road. If all the seeds are rotting before they sprout, the seeds either started off contaminated, are not viable or something is off with the environment.
Last Edit: Feb 8, 2019 12:07:43 GMT -5 by meizzwang
Post by xanthoparmelia on Feb 8, 2019 12:11:38 GMT -5
In my limited experience, i've observed that stratification success has less to do with process, and more to do with the seed batch. Of course this probably isn't anything earth-shattering. After fumbling through, and failing with my first couple of attempts, i managed to pin down what i believe to be the fundamentals.
I believe that media choice, be it paper towel, peat, or milled sphagnum is inconsequential (so long as potentially impactful contaminates are absent). Moisture, cool temps and mold/fungus mitigation are the boxes that need to be checked.
I also believe that strict adherence to duration guidance is unnecessary. I've had 90%+ germination rates with a stratification period of 26 days. With a recent purpurea var purpurea batch, i had 19 out of 20 pop after just a 30 day stratification. I've also had a seed batch go undergo a 30 day stratification, with only a 20% germination rate.
These are, of course, just opinions based on personal observation. There's a reason why existing protocols are called conventional wisdom, and erring on the side of caution isn't a bad thing. Everyone has a process that works for them, and your mileage may vary. Being lazy and impatient happens to work for me.
"I don't know, man, I guess I'm gonna fade into Bolivian." -Mike Tyson
Great info on this post, thanks everybody! I've been growing for about a decade but am still very much a rookie at growing Sarrs from seed. I selfed some rubras way back in elementary school, and I recently made some nice nacziis with a red tube flava and a phat rosea, but the latter cross grew in a dim windowsill and the plants were horribly etiolated by the time I acclimatized them outside. They looked like bean sprouts, basically. They're currently doing very well, but are still on the small side considering their age. Currently, I have 8 crosses from last year cookin' (not literally!) under grow lights (and many more pollinated this year), and I'm trying to step up my stratification/germination/early development game to expedite the maturation process.
That's probably more of an introduction than was necessary for this question. Oops. Anyway, in mixed in with the seeds of this oreophila x purp purp heterophylla cross is a super dark purple seed. John Brittnacher of the ICPS has mentioned that such color variance is to be expected even from the same plant, but it appears to be the only seed out of any of my crosses that is so dark. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this before and if the plants grown from such anomalous seeds are any different from their siblings as they mature. Thanks!
sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5
sarrseens: How about $50
Oct 3, 2020 10:35:54 GMT -5