woofermazing I don't know that the risks associated with soil fertilization are in fact less for seedlings than mature plants. Fertilizing seedlings that are generally too small to capture prey makes a huge difference in their growth rate for obvious reasons, but I would expect exactly the same effect in mature plants for which maxsea was the only source of nutrients as well. But I know for a fact that you can fry seedlings just as well as mature plants with excessive soil fertilization (have seen the carnage in my own and friends' plants: frowny face). In contrast, pitcher injection of even larger quantities of the same or stronger fertilizer solutions results in rapid growth and the occasional burnt pitcher, but never systemic harm to the plant. Biologically this makes perfect sense. Sarracenia roots are adapted to scrounging in exceedingly poor soils and so are hyper-absorbers of nutrients. As a result they will "eat themselves to death" when too many nutrients are present. On the other hand, the trap interiors are well adapted to extremely high nutrient levels - even being filled with straight-up rotting flesh doesn't faze them! For this reason I fertilize into suitably sized pitchers with reckless abandon, perform light foliar misting on seedlings that are too small for injection, and NEVER use maxsea to fertilize through the roots. Granted, SOME gets on the soil when misting, and growers have good results using slow release pellets in soil. IMHO soil fertilization is playing with fire: the key is making sure the dosing is controlled, but it is hard to do that with liquid fert like maxsea. Hope that clarifies things!
After a fire in the wild, you have shrubs and very fast growing herbaceous plants that compete for nutrients, so even if there is an initial burst of nutrients into the soil, it's quickly depleted by neighboring plants. You also have frequent rains in the wild that both dilute and carry away nutrients from the root zone. To top things off, it is likely that the concentration of "available" N,P, and K are much lower from burnt organic matter compared to straight up fertilizer. Organic compounds tend to hold onto some of these macronutrients until bacteria chop them off and make them available.
Large, mature Sarracenia have a lot of woody tissue on the rhizome, some of which is dead at functional maturity (think of bark on trees, it's like that, except a very thin layer). In addition, the back ends of the rhizomes (furthest away from the growth point) may die off over time as well. If you fertilize the soil, otherwise non-virulent fungi and bacteria "wake up," and once their momentum is started, they'll attack live tissue, which causes rhizome rot.
Post by sgtsarracenia on Nov 4, 2015 13:23:08 GMT -5
Ok Sarracenia Gods you convinced me. Lol I just got my Maxsea yesterday. My question is..... Since I grow all of my Sarrs outside, and we are finally getting a drop in temps and the days are shorter, should I start to fertilize my seedling pitchers now as they start their dormancy? Or should I wait until after dormancy?
sgtsarracenia I would only fertilize during active growth if I were you. But then again, I never tried dormant fertilizing. I guess it could depend upon how dormant your plants are. If it's 60 degrees during the day dropping to 40 at night they could potentially still benefit.
Post by sgtsarracenia on Nov 4, 2015 18:27:54 GMT -5
Thanks Corey. It is still 70s during the day and 50s at night. Some are still putting out new pitchers so I know they are still growing, maybe slower but none the less still growing. If nothing else I will try it on a handful and see what happens. If nothing else I may see accelerated growth from them come spring. I'm in Cali so my winters aren't really winters to start with. LOL
Absolutely stay away from fertilizing during the dormancy period, there's a much greater risk of feeding bacteria and fungi in the leaves (especially during cool, wet weather), which can eventually get down to the rhizome and kill the plant. The plant won't be able to use any of these nutrients anyways since it's barely doing much during dormancy.
sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5
sarrseens: How about $50
Oct 3, 2020 10:35:54 GMT -5