And now I have a little problem: I've noticed a lot of seedlings producing traps that are smaller then the previous ones. Also I'm noticing that a certain number of lids Is turning brown-purple... Is It an indication of over fertilization?
Those could be manifestations of under or over-fertilization: hook-like aborted traps that are small and never mature are absolutely a symptom of over-fertilization. Traps that fully open but are smaller than the previous ones are more likely due to too little fertilizer. Likewise reddening and dieback of pitcher tips could be fertilizer burn or it could be natural aging of the traps.
Do this: remove some pots from the terrarium and put them in a clean bowl or tray. Dribble pure water through them slowly until you’ve collected a few ounces of leachate from each pot, then measure the mineral levels in each pot’s leachate with a TDS meter. Also measure the TDS of the pure water before leaching so you know your baseline. If you get a number over about 200-300 I’d say your problems are too much fertilizer, if you’re reading well under 100, they are probably hungry.
I experimented with osmocote pellets one year and found it too hard to control the dose. The pellets released a ton of fertilizer rapidly and stressed the seedlings, then ran out and left the plants with no food! The membrane on the pellet releases fertilizer faster the wetter and warmer it is, so they were barely “controlled release” in my experience!
First of all, tanks for your help calen, you're always ready to help out who is less experinced then you (so a LOT of people, lol). Now, let's go back to the seedlings. I've never had any small, hook-like pitcher that never mature, so I'd exclude over-fertilization, at least from the root system. The osmocote pellets were added in the last week of October, so I think the symptoms of over-fertilization would have appeared previously. This leads me to think that the problem could be the maxsea solution, a little bit too strong. Anyway, the TDS meter I've ordered on Amazon should arrive within Friday, so I'll test the leachate of every pot and the maxsea solution, posting here the results afterwards.
So, here are the results: Pure water: 25 ppm Tray water: 6 ppm Leached water (of one pot, the one with more simptomatic plants): 21 ppm MaxSea solution (the one I used for sprying and feeding the seedlings): 688 ppm
Conclusions: I think the problem was the concentration of the MaxSea solution being too strong. I will stop feeding the plants and I will check the leaves as they age. If they don't show any burn, my hypothesis will be confirmed.
Ps: I've checked what is the brand of the fertilizer's pellet I put in the pots, and It came out it Is BAYCOTE and NOT OSMOCOTE as I thought.
It's definitely osmocote in the states. Baycote everywhere else. Same thing. Slow release fertilizer pellets. Yeah ... there's no way to control the release rate on those. You might want to use a different approach. I think the typical Maxsea ratio is 1/2 tsp per gallon of RO or Distilled water. Your ppm on both types of water will be 0.
I don't think the problem was the baycote. If it was so, the leachate would have had a much higher ppm value. I think I used the wrong amount of MaxSea for the foliar feeding solution. I used 1/4 tablespoon per gallon of water instead of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. My solution was, literally, 3x stronger then the recomanded one . I'm glad I didn't burn down completly the plants!
zugul sorry I missed your post here: I was on vacation!
I don’t think your problem is too much fertilizer. If it was then the leachate number would be waaaaaay higher. If the leachate is similar to the water baseline, then the plants are taking up all the fertilizer.
In my experience spraying the soil is inefficient. Number one it’s very hard to control your dosing accurately. Number two, it’s hard to administer a significant dose without either a) using a strong solution and risking burn due to jacking soil surface nutrient levels way up or b) applying a high volume of a weak solution. My seedlings grew very slowly when I was spray fertilizing, which I eventually attributed to under-dosing (sounds obvious, but overfertilization causes slow growth too, and this was before I thought to test leachate lol)
It sounds like under-dosing is likely the case here. It doesn’t matter if your spray solution is strong if you aren’t applying very much of it at all. I would suggest the tray fertilization plus leaching approach. I’ll link the thread here in a minute. You’ll be able to get much more consistent dosing and your seedlings will go nuts!
Today I've had some spare time so I added MaxSea ti the tray water until I got approximatly 110 ppm. Now I have a question: calen , how do you add more fertilizer when the concentration drops to ~80 ppm? Do you add some high-concentration solution and then adjust with pure water or something different?
At this moment the pot of Drosera binata is the one which responded faster to the fertilization: the sundews are producing leaves duble the size then the previous ones! On the other hand a lot of Sarracenia seedlings popped a bit smaller traps, I think due to the change of nutrients in the soil solution. I hope the next ones will be bigger!
Finally I'm noticing some good growth! I'm also startig to repot the best looking plants from the pots that look too crowded. Don't worry, all the remainig plants did't get tossed, they just got moved in the greenhouse! Pic taken on 3rd March 2020
sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5
sarrseens: How about $50
Oct 3, 2020 10:35:54 GMT -5