What size pots

[katyadog1]

Some of them look a bit deep to me, yes. I would pull them all up just a tad, you generally just want roots in the soil. I think that as long as just the roots are in the soil, you're good. ps3isawesome had an exception, if you have a long rhizome you're going to want to put it sideways as it will re-orient its pitcher growth upwards. I have several rhizomes like that planted sideways.

But, I would say let an expert chime in before you do anything as I don't really know whats best, I just know what killed my plants.

[Morpheus]

I would definitely pull them up some, I lost 4 plants breaking my first dormancy because I planted them too deep. I put everything as high up as I can without exposing too much of the roots

[MPH101]

I've pictures. I will post later. Good topic. Generally I use a deep narrow pot. If you google Long leaf pine seedling pots you will see the type of pot I use. A narrow pot that allows for deep root penetration, sometimes called a rose pot. Not much width but a lot of depth, gallon standard.
However, for S. psittacina and purps I use a shallow pot. The roots seem to be shallow (wide) on these 2 and are horizontal more then vertical. Plus S. psittacina loves to be submerged to extremely wet. The hybrids with these 2 work with shallow wide pots better maybe as well.

S. minor doesn't like it wet or that moist. Mind you I am talking about my area and every area is different. On the west coast of Florida nights are very hot and humid for months. The key word is exposure to substrate and a dewpoint of over 70 F with a nighttime low of 75 F or above. The more soil exposed the more fungal pathogens grow. Cooler night time lows eliminate some but not all of that. I will beat down the need to understand fungal which tears apart natural populations in the habitat and much worse in your pot which is a stressed growing condition more then the wild.
Understanding your local mico climate will help you, reading a book about where S. flava rugellii grows in the wild not so much.
With a mature rhizome on the pot, make sure the rhizome is totally above the surface like a ship on the water with the roots secured in the medium. In a high humidity situation with frequent rain or watering from the top pure quartz silica white sand is a good topping. Live sphagnum or peat is a potential rot off disaster.
Man, a sinking rhizome in a pot is disaster, the rhizome must be exposed and the roots into the potting medium. Always cool but not so when live sphagnum covers the growth point, yank the stuff away expose the growth points for ventilation.
Think of your local dewpoint not the relative humidity as a true measure of humidity in the air and at soil level.
These are from my growing area, and my personal experience everyone is different and I am west of Tampa Florida.

* quartz silica sand , can be had at a builders supply company, used for sand blasting. Sometimes Home depot has it.  Wash the sand and use it.  Quartz silica sand should be a vital part over perelite (yuk)  of your substrate. SE Sarracenia grow in areas with high quartz silica for the most.  It drains well and will work very well with live sphagnum its heavy though.  It doesn't wear out or turn green like perlite, which I don't use with Sarracenia.  Again the weight is problematic and its a bit more costly.  Over sphagnum or quartz  (blasting sand QUARTZ Slica) I choose sphagnum milled dried peat moss and silica.