Post by kgrizzlefoshizzle on Jun 10, 2019 13:09:02 GMT -5
Hey guys, long story short I lived in New York two years ago moved to South Carolina with my collection and I have never experienced levels of rot the way I am experiencing now. At the same time my plants have never looked better. But I do feel like every other day I’m discovering a plant in need of dividing or treatment for signs of rot.
My question is this for the southeast growers
Is there preemptive ways to avoid this problem such as pre-treating?
What is everyone’s go to fungicides and treatments?
And I have already changed my mixes to basically 60/40 Perlite to peat.
I’m kind of drawing a blank with the situation because we get five days of nonstop rain and then a couple of days of decent weather and then another five days of nonstop rain LOL especially this time of year. So any information you guys have would greatly be appreciated!
The SE USA is a different animal, but also one of the best growing regions for Sarracenia. We do not use flooded trays or standing water, precisely because the humidity is so high and the temperatures, during the day, are routinely above 85 F. Some folks, like Meadowview, have access to tannic, aseptic water. But, most of us do not. First, assess your water: what is the EC (Electrical Conductivity) and pH? If those are off, you're fighting an uphill battle. Tray or flooded systems are also a great way for swimming pathogens to infect everything, since many make motile zoospores.
Avoid wetting the foliage and crowns, as much as possible. Water, standing in the petiole bases, takes longer to evaporate, giving pathogens a better chance. Water to the sides of the plants to wet the media.
We use 2 parts peat to one part sand. A higher peat ratio lowers the pH, making it more acid and tougher for some pathogens. Water during the cool of morning, not evening, where water can sit in crowns until morning's sun.
If you use fungicides, the "experimental" combo of: 1 TBS Zyban OR Cleary's 3336 plus 6-7 drops of Subdue Max, per gallon of water, is a good, broad-spectrum fungicide. Apply this in the evening, using distilled or RO water, when the temperatures are between 66-85 degrees F. This fungicide combo works best as a "sprench"- a heavy spray that soaks only the top 1/2-1 inch of media. The next day, leach the media with pure water. These chemicals are systemic, so you're rinsing away residues. Do not apply fungicides during the heat of the day or in full midday sun. Always follow label instructions.
Though less common, Bacterial soft rot can attack plants. The tissues get soft very quickly and typically has a very unpleasant, often Ammonia-like odor. The main culprit is Erwinia, and it's a problem in deep southern regions where it's very hot and humid. Fortunately, it's not commonly associated with Sarracenia.
Like Bogman, we water vertically. Good drainage and aeration seems to help. We've given up on fungicides. Tried many, and find the rot pathogens rapidly develop a resistance, and there is toxic build up in the plants. We let the plants get a little dry, for a bog grower. NOT bone dry, but dry enough to curtail some pathogens. This also encourages a big healthy root system. Otherwise, diligence and rhizome surgery are best once you see early signs of rot. Lately, we've been growing our master cultivars in styrofoam coolers, giving the Sarrs more space and definitely a cooler growing medium (peat and perlite). It seems to help, but is not a cure-all. We've finally started our rainy season down here, and this is when the rhizome rot rears its ugly head. Gotta keep a watchful eye on the Sarracenia...and the Cattleyas too.
mikee: I have just joined this forum so will make a few mistakes - So here goes I have recently started my collection and now have some 150 to 200 plants during my first year. I have some very nice flowers spikes and would like to propagate.
Apr 18, 2020 4:57:24 GMT -5
mikee: So I would like to know the different properties for colour - vigor - size etc I don't have the time due to my age so would not be able run over many years can someone help or guide me
Apr 18, 2020 5:00:48 GMT -5
mikee: Thanks you chofah, there is a great video from The Pitcher Project with Phil Faulisi this was what I was looking for. However it still appears to be wait and see what results come from the cross. Many thanks
Apr 21, 2020 3:41:45 GMT -5
Willy: It would be rather silly to expect totally predictable results from a cross. The individual plants grown from the seeds will vary, sometimes quite a bit, even with carefully protected hand pollination. If you open polinate, the variety may be even greater.
May 22, 2020 21:30:15 GMT -5
petrb: However, my web is in Czech, but you can find there many photos
May 24, 2020 1:48:38 GMT -5
superstressed: Recently purchased a s. purpurea from Mike and I am so impressed with the quality of the plant that arrived. My Purpurea is now one of the larger plants in my collection! Mike also included an beautiful Flava var. for free. I will absolutely buy again.
May 24, 2020 21:27:00 GMT -5
scottjross79: review for Michael Wang purchased dionaea m. onslow county and arrived in pristine condition and even had a fellow suprise added . wony hesitate ever purchase from him again he is way beyond a seller and a genuine grower with vibrant healthy EquistePlants
Jun 5, 2020 16:29:49 GMT -5
Sarr. minor fan: why are you doing this
Jun 14, 2020 18:34:28 GMT -5
DirtyDivisions: \The immature stupid person posting in the chat box has been banned!
Jun 27, 2020 18:46:44 GMT -5
stu: Hi Mike: I’m pleased to report that the S. rubra wherryi Chatom Giant you sent has arrived in great shape as did the bonus plant from NC. Both are now back under southern skies and are feeling warm, humid, and at home again. Thanks!
Jul 22, 2020 13:21:21 GMT -5
sanguinearocks101: I am planning on doing an order from Mike... and I’m on a budget, some of the hardest decisions I’ve ever made
Aug 27, 2020 8:28:29 GMT -5
sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5