Post by alabamens!s on Oct 21, 2016 16:07:26 GMT -5
So I've got a powdery mildew epidemic on my hands. I live on an Appalachian foothill that stays a little damper and cooler than the valley, I tend to see a lot of moss/mold/mildew in the area. I've only just now, with cooling temperatures, noticed a problem with powdery mildew.
I've been treating it with neem oil but it seems ineffective (2 tbsp to gallon of distilled water, sprayed on the leaves daily for a week). Should I try sulfur?
Also, what kind of damage can powdery mildew do to pitcher plants? This close to dormancy, should I just cut off the many infected leaves?
Post by mattknepley on Oct 21, 2016 16:16:35 GMT -5
I get powdery-mildew in the spring and it stays all...season...long. I use a copper fungicide, but I don't reckon that's viable for Sarrs. The odd thing is that the only plant it really bothers is my monarda. Other plants in close contact to it are unfazed. My cps are pretty close, so I was anxious,but I've only seen one pitcher show any signs of mildew, and I am wondering the same thing as you; should I just cut it? I imagine that's what I'll do especially since it's on a pitcher that is definitely on its way out...
I have powdery mildew for the first time this year on my sarrs. The rest of my perennial gardens have been actually better this year for PM... Kinda odd. I've tried the hydrogen peroxide dilution and it does kill it off the leaves well but it comes back in short order. I just got some tebuconazole fungicide that's a systemic. It was reccomended from SNW. I'm going to try it out this weekend and I'll post back. I also ready that PM has a lot of varieties, so an infected squash plant might not infect a phlox.
We've also been having really good luck with this stuff: www.amazon.com/Natural-Industries-LGAV02-Actinovate-Fungicide/dp/B0026KSLG2 It's a biological, and it seems to keep powdery mildew at bay when used as directed. So far it seems safe on all cp we've tried it on, including Cephalotus, Darlingtonia, and of some summer squash. In the past once squash got powdery mildew, it always seemed like a lost cause. This kept the stuff at bay better than anything I've seen, and it very low tox.
Well so far the tebuconazole fungicide is working perfect on my seedlings I brought in. You spray it on the plants.... Which killed the existing powdery mildew .... And the water the soil with it as well as a drench. Nothing has come back so far after doing two rounds to make sure.. Though I didn't see any issues after the first.
I didn't mention before... But I have tried daconil as well. It's a thicker spray... So it seemed to hold off the return of the pm longer then the hydrogen peroxide... But it still returned.
If you do get powdery mildew on your sarrs it's probably best to just remove the infected pitchers. The white fuzzy growth you see is predominantly conidiophores, which are a specialized structure that produce asexual spores by the thousands. The spores are very easily disseminated so removal is a probably a better idea if it's a small or localized infection. Then use a sulfur powdew to create an environment nonconductive to spore germination. Good hygiene with your plants helps limit chances for infection in the spring too
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sanguinearocks101: What are good plants to make hybrids with S. luecophylla with? Im looking for dark colors.
Sept 10, 2020 18:46:52 GMT -5
adaetz100: Sarracenia purpurea tends to add a lot of red/purple to its offspring, but there are some lovely dark red flava x leucophylla crosses too. Look up 'Royal Ruby' if you're not familiar with it already--it's a natural flava x leuco hybrid
Sept 22, 2020 20:15:04 GMT -5
sarrseens: How about $50
Oct 3, 2020 10:35:54 GMT -5